The Perfect Wines for the Perfect Season
Spring has sprung and our yards and gardens have finally turned green again, so the question becomes "What to drink on these beautiful evenings?" There are no bugs yet, the temperature is cool but not cold, the birds are chirping and the lilacs are in full bloom. I can think of nothing better this time of year than a cool, clean and tasty glass of white wine- somehting with a little fruit and spice, but ultimately light and refreshing.
Which brings us to.....
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Just to the west of the beautiful city of Verona along autostrada A4 sits a winery that is
a unique combination of both the old and the new, history and the future. Azienda Agricola Fattori is similar to many wineries in Italy in that is run by a third-generation family member who strives to improve upon the success of his ancestors. The similarities tend to stop there however as Fattori is quietly crafting some of Italy’s most exciting wines.
Antonio Fattori began farming this land at the end of the 19th century. As a simple sharecropper he had a hard life of work in the vineyards for very little pay, but his love of the land kept him rooted to this region until WWI. After the war he returned home to find the vineyards destroyed by Phylloxera. Stubborn and tireless he replanted the vineyards and began to produce his own wines, especially sweeter versions filtered with old German barrel filters. He transported wine for sale in barrels, with wagons and on horses, to the taverns and inns of Verona and Vicenza.
Fast forward two generations and the current Antonio Fattori has worked these vines since the 1970s. He was the first in his poor peasant family to receive a proper education, and it was decided from his birth that he would be immersed in the world of wine.
“Now I had the desire to create, experiment, take up the scientific method and innovation, but also search for more authentic and original traditions,” says Antonio. “I wanted wines more attractive, less right and more vibrant, I wanted the flavors to blend together with sweetness and volume. The results are the fruit of a journey through time when I visited many places, meeting people and trying new techniques, tools and methods.”
The old vineyards have been replanted to tightly spaced rows that sit on the rolling hills between 150 and 450 meters. The vineyards are farmed without the use of chemicals or inorganic fertilizers. For each parcel of vines there is a uniquely selected concrete, wood or steel fermentation vessel, which is invariable conducted at low temperatures. A non-invasive approach is employed at all times.
Today Antonio farms the estate with his brother Giovanni and his wife Sarah Graney. Each share in the accolades as well as the hard work to produce a stunning line up of white wines that focuses not only on the current favorites such as Pinot Grigio and Soave, but also on the traditional Recioto and a thoroughly modern blend called Roncha.
Despite their incredible wines Fattori remains somewhat of a closely guarded secret. This region of Italy literally produces an ocean of Pinot Grigio from the big houses so a small, family-run winery that produces outstanding wines can certainly get lost in the shuffle. But with decades of dedication under their belts, the wines just keep getting better.
Click here to visit Fattori's website
$11.33 Wholesale $16.99 Retail
The Soave is sourced from Volcanic hills and is 100% Garganega that is harvested in October before it is fermented in stainless steel tanks at cold temperatures and on the lees. This is a delightful wine that combines aromas of cherry blossoms, Hawthorne and star anise with flavors that range from clover honey to citrus to almond cream on a dry frame with a long and lovely finish.
$12.66 Wholesale $18.99 Retail
The Pinot Grigio is one of the best in Italy. It is harvested late and allowed to oxidize ever so slightly during the fermentation process which adds richness and complexity to an already full-bodied wine. Crisp green apples and citrus notes intermingle with ripe summer peaches, white flowers and a note of fresh roasted chestnuts on the finish.
$11.99 Wholesale $17.99 Retail
The Roncha is a blend of grapes named after the town nearby. It combines the fresh citrus of Sauvignon Blanc with the green apple and peach notes of Pinot Grigio and the body of Chardonnay and adds a beautifully complex note of dried pineapple, marzipan and Rainier cherries from the Garganega which is the grape used to make Soave. Some of the Garganega has been dried on straw mats to increase the depth and complexity of this already expressive and elegant wine.
