 Fattoria Milziade Antano Phew, that's a mouthful! But call them Antano for short. Just like the name the wine is a real tongue twister as well, as the Antano family crafts some of Italy's finest wines from a small estate in the hills of Umbria. This is Old World Italy, where the rolling hills and Cypress trees provide a picturesque backdrop for the long days of summer. One might never know a sleepy community named Montefalco in the heart of Umbria is responsible for some of the greatest wines central Italy has to offer. But you should!
"The wine producer has to create a product of which he is proud, and not create a compromise based upon demand."
Such is the philosophy of Francesco Antano whose family estate located just west of the town of Montefalco produces some of central Italy's most insprired and inspiring wines. Montefalco is called the "Balcony of Umbria" as it sits at the region's highest point. The steep slopes and thin soils create a lavish environment for the fruits of the vine. Though overshadowed by Tuscany to the west, Umbria has a long and rich winemaking history which can be traced back to Etruscan times almost 3000 years ago. Recently interest in the region from an enological standpoint has been renewed, thanks in part to the quality and tradition found within the wines of Fattoria Milziade Antano.
Fattoria Antano was created in the 1970s when Milziade Antano first planted vines on the hills outside of Montefalco. For years Antano’s family had survived through the sharecropping system in which the fruit from the vines they tended was sold to the local cooperative. But Milziade recognized the potential of the region, and after spending a short period of time abroad to study he returned to plant a wide range of vines. His planting methods, though considered modern by today’s standards, were positively revolutionary in the 1970’s. Tight vineyard spacing, south-facing vines and a double guyot training method all played a role in creating healthy and robust grapes. Even then Milziade was a fanatic about low yields and treating the soil with the utmost respect. This included the omission of chemicals and pesticides in the vineyards, and a very light touch in terms of copper and sulphur treatments.
Fast forward a few decades, and after the passing of his father Francesco Antano took control of the vineyards and the wine making duties. Francesco personally handles all aspects of wine production in an effort to leave nothing to chance. He works tirelessly to ensure that not only is he producing a fantastic product, but that the wines have all the character and soul of the Umbrian countryside. They are the epitome of "family-made" wines, right down to the label which has been designed by hand.
“These are wines that demand patience: patience in the vineyard, in vinification, and above all patience in the bottle. The wine’s true potential emerges a few years after release and continues to evolve for years.”
Today Montefalco is also called "a little slice of heaven" as it is known throughout Italy for producing bold, robust and rustic wines from a combination of native grapes and Sangiovese. The true superstar of the region is Sagrantino, a thick-skinned variety that produces wines of inky depths, rich fruit and ample tannins. These are wines that reach maturity after decades, and not simply years. It is also one of the rarest grapes around, as there are only about 250 acres of Sagrantino in existence in the world!
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2007 Antano Montefalco Rosso  $11.99 wholesale $17.99 retail
While Sagrantino may be the great grape of Montefalco, some of the greatest wines are a blend of Sagrantino and Sangiovese. The Antano Rosso is an almost 50/50 blend of the two, and the harmony reached between them has given us an amazing wine. The Sangiovese brings elegance, freshness, perfume and bright red fruit notes along with the dusty tannins and herbs that the grape is so famous for. Then add in the Sagrantino, which offers ripe dark fruit, a violet perfume, notes of baking spices and a slight earthy, tarry note as well as a broad structure, and we are left with a wine that is sophisticated and complex, but not lacking in old world charm. Just a splash of Merlot brings a silky and soft feel to the mid-palate.
The grapes are co-fermented in large open-topped cement tanks, a process that is both historically relevant but also still considered to be the finest way of fermenting by many of Europe's elite winemakers today. The tanks create a perfect environment in which aromatics are not lost, but just enough oxidation occurs to allow for softer tannins, complex flavors and a long finish. After fermentation the wines are aged in a combination of tank and very large and old Slovenian Oak casks. It is bottled without fining or filtration.
Antonio Galloni of The Wine Advocate had this to say about Antano: "Some of the most unique, compelling wines in Montefalco emerge from these cramped cellars in Bevagna. The wines possess striking aromatics, gorgeous fruit and remarkable balance which makes them approachable when young but also capable of developing beautifully in bottle. Stylistically the wines bridge modern and traditional styles with a distinct leaning towards the classical. These are among the most accessible wines from Montefalco when young, which also makes them a great starting point for readers who want to explore the breadth of Montefalco's oenological beauty.
"Simply put, readers should do whatever they can to get their hands on these splendid reference-point wines."
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